Not a good day to take pictures but who cares!
By Theo Kalomirakis
While vacationing in Elafonissos last month, I decided to visit Pavlopetri, the nearby archeological site. Pavlopetri, located in Greece’s Peloponnese, is one of the oldest submerged cities, dating back to around 3000 BCE. It was a significant Bronze Age port and settlement, known for its well-preserved labyrinth of streets, tombs, and buildings. The city was gradually abandoned by the late Bronze Age, possibly due to natural disasters like earthquakes or sea level rise. Its remains lie submerged under about 3-4 meters of water, making it an important archaeological site.
I searched for a boat that could take me to the site and found the only water taxi on the island. I called the number my hotel provided and spoke with the daughter of the boat’s owner, Captain Babis. We agreed to meet that afternoon at the pier. Captain Babis told me that the water was shallow, making it easy to see the ruins of the city under normal conditions. However, it would be much harder to see them when it’s windy like it was that day and the sea is rough. Since I was leaving the following morning, I had no choice but to take the chance. Unfortunately, I didn’t manage to take any good photos of the ruins. Next time….
On the way to the site, captain Babis went through the presentation he gives to countless tourists every summer. Its pretty much what you know from history books. I was just interested in taking pictures. His narration was a free bonus! The new information I got from the captain was about several round, domed graves at the site. The graves visible above the water belong to adults, while the submerged ones are for children. There’s also a square grave that likely belonged to either royalty or a wealthy merchant. I asked Captain Babis how he knew this, and he explained that he learned it from his uncle, who passed away over 50 years ago. His uncle had heard about it from his grandparents. In Greece, stories like these are passed down through generations, sometimes unchanged, but often embellished or altered. Still, it’s enjoyable to hear tales from the past from the mouth of a seasoned and passionate captain who clearly loves his work. Captain Babis has been giving tours of Pavlopetri since 1968. He recalls a time when visitors could swim and take underwater photos, but that’s no longer allowed
When you do your homework and read about it, you learn that Pavlopetri provides insights into early urban planning and maritime trade in ancient Greece. During my short boat ride, I was aware that I was on a site of historical importance in the development of Mediterranean civilization. The visit was worthwhile, whether I was able to take good pictures or not.